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A bevy of bars and cafes and a couple of clubs are pulling the arty crowd away from the tourist hordes in the main square and preserving a genuinely sophisticated drinking scene in the unique Jewish Quarter.The majority of the best venues can be found in and around the Plac Nowy, the funkiest of which is surely the ultra-hip Alchemia.

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All nights out, by orders of Her Majesty The Queen (whose authority bypasses such frivolities as international borders) must start in a bar and no later than eight o'clock!But of course, when it comes to the big players no guide to Krakow's nightlife would be complete without mentioning Krakow's most wayward child, Prozak.With its shameless (and yet not entirely without merit) door policy of letting in only fit Polish girls and rich foreign men you might expect the worst, but it regularly stumps up stunningly original house and techno sets that are surely wasted on some of the clientele.If Krakow isn't short of a bar or two (about two hundred in total by all accounts), then you don't have to go very much further to find a club.The roads leading onto the main square are chock full of doorways, which, unnoticed during the day, sprout big burly doorman at night and entice you in with the powerful thump of a familiar bass-line.

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